Trinity Infinity Cowl Pattern

This is a very simple pattern for a cowl that is made entirely with the trinity stitch.  I love the trinity stitch because it provides a very drapey and fabricky feel with an interesting texture.  I made this cowl with an alpaca silk blend, Debbie Bliss Andes, for an amazingly soft and luxurious feel. 

Yarn: Approximately 550 yards DK weight yarn.  For soft and scrumptious with some sheen, go for an alpaca silk blend like Debbie Bliss Andes.

Gauge: 10 trinity stitches and about 8.5 rows equals a 4 inch square.

Hook: I

Finished Dimensions: 7 inches wide, 60 inches long.

Trinity Stitch:  Insert hook in last stitch of previous trinity stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, yarn over, pull through all four loops on your hook, chain 1, trinity stitch made!  Here are two great tutorials to help you out: Yarn Tomato and Crochet by Teresa's Video Tutorial.  Tip: Your first trinity stitch of each row starts in the last ch 1 of previous row, not in the last sc (this took me forever to figure out!).  And, the last "insert hook, yo, pull through" of each trinity st should be in a previous row ch, not in a previous row trinity st.  (If what I just said makes no sense to you, just follow the tutorials above!).  Your trinity stitches should look kinda like squares stacked on top of each other, not on diagonals.

Pattern:  Ch 37

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, ch 1, work trinity st across row, sc in last trinity st. ch 1 turn.

Row 2: sc, ch 1, work trinity st across row, sc in last trinity st, ch 1 turn. 
Row 3 to end: Repeat Row 2 until the piece measures about 60 inches.  This will allow you to wrap the cowl around your neck twice easily without being too baggy.

Finish:  Weave in all your ends.  Whip stitch ends of  piece together (for a mobius wrap, twist once before stitching together.  And you're done!

Cute as a Button Baby Bib

I love this little pattern.  It is very quick and easy and would make a terrific gift.  The bright bold colors and stripes and cute button make it unique.  The soft cotton is absorbent and easy on baby soft skin.  Totally washable too!

Yarn:  Lily Sugar’n Cream, about a quarter of a skein or so of main color and another quarter of a skein of contrasting color.

Gauge:  The bib in the picture measures 7.25 inches wide by 6.5 inches tall.  To get that size the gauge is: 11.5 sc and 12 rows is a 4 inch square.   You can adjust hook size for a smaller or bigger bib.

The strap measures about 10 inches total.

Hook: I (5.5 mm)

Bib:  (Note:  You will be working from the bottom of the bib up)

With MC, holding 2 strands together, ch 21.

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (20 sc) 

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (20 sc).

Rows 3-7:  repeat row 2.

Row 8: Change to CC. Ch1, turn, sc across. (20sc) (Note: I carried my  MC across on the CC rows to have it handy for the next row)

Rows 9-12:  repeat row 2.

Row 13: repeat row 8.

Rows 14 & 15: repeat row 2.

Row 16: repeat row 8.

Row 17: repeat row 2.

Row 18: repeat row 8.  Do not fasten.

Trim:  Keeping with contrasting yarn, ch 1, turn, work a row of scs across the top of the bib.  Work 3 scs in the corner and continue around the bib, working 3 scs in each corner. 

Strap: When you get to your last corner of the bib, work your 3 corner scs and then work 5 more scs, ch1, turn.  Sk first st, work 2 scs then 2sctog. Ch 1 turn, 3 sc.  Continue working 3 scs per row for about 8 inches.

Button Loop:  When you get to your last strap row, ch 2 (counts as first dc) turn, sk next st., 2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc into same st, 1 dc in last stitch.  Fasten.

Button:  Using MC and only one strand of yarn, Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc into first ch (6sc), do not join, just keep working around,  Round 2: 2 sc into each sc (12sc) Round 3: sc2tog (6sc), Round 4: sc2tog (3sc).  Fasten leaving a long tail.

Finishing:  Attach button to bib, weave in all your ends.  You are done . . . YEAH!

Easy Peasy Toddler Dress Pattern

Easy Peasy!  That's what I love about this pattern and it turns out quite cute!

If you find a problem with this pattern, please comment so I can fix it!

Yarn: About 1.5 skeins of Caron Simply Soft in Country Blue (approximately 500 yards) with Cascade Superwash  in Violet (about 50 yards or so) for the trim (Just what I had on hand).

Hook:  Bottom Skirt Use F Hook, then Switch to D Hook

Gauge: for skirt 14 tr and 5 rows is a 4 inch square. For bodice 20 dc and 10 rows is a 4 inch square.  Finished project is about size 4T

Notes:  Start from bottom and work your way up to the top.  Shaping of skirt is done only by changing stitch and hook.  No decreases!!!  Yeah!  (Until you get to the top).  Turn your work after every round. (I find this keeps the joins straighter, otherwise they start going diagonally on me if I don't turn my work, may just be me, so if you can keep your joins straight by all means, don't turn!).

Skirt.

Foundation Row: Ch. 120 sl st to join in a circle without twisting.

Row 1.  Ch. 3. (counts as first stitch) Tr. around. (120 Tr.) sl st to join. ch. 3 Turn.

Repeat Round 1 for 7 inches. At the end of the last Tr. round, ch 2 and Turn.

Dc around (120 dc) ch 2 Turn.

Repeat Dc around for 4 inches.  At the end of the last Dc round, ch 1 and turn.

hdc around for 2 inches. (120 hdc)  At the end of the last hdc round, ch 1 and turn.

Switch to D hook.

sc around for 1 inch (120 sc).  You are done with the skirt! Do NOT FASTEN Now wasn't that easy!  And look how it is just shaped perfectly!

Trim

Switch to CC.

Round 1: with WS facing, 2 dc in blo around (240 dc)  (make sure MC yarn is in the inside of the skirt before you join).  Join with sl st. ch 2 turn.

Round 2: 2 dc in each stitch (480 dc).  Fasten off.

Top

With MC and WS facing, sc around in flo.  (120 sc). sl st. to join, ch. 2 and turn.

Dc around, do not join from here on out.  (120 dc) ch 2 turn.

Dc around again, ch. 2 turn (120dc).

Now for the sleeve openings:

Dc 30, ch. 30, dc 60, ch 30, dc 30 (180 stitches)  ch 2, turn.

dc around (180 dc) ch 2 turn.

Now for a decrease row:

Dc 2, dc 2tog, *(dc3, dc 2tog)* repeat from * to * around. (145 dc) ch 2 turn

dc around (145 dc) ch 2 turn

dc around (145 dc) ch 2 turn

Another decrease row:

Dc 2, dc 2tog, *(dc3, dc 2tog)* repeat from * to * around. (116 dc) ch 2 turn

dc around (116 dc) ch 2 turn

dc around (116 dc) ch 2 turn

Another decrease row (with more decreases):

Dc, dc 2tog, *(dc2, dc 2tog)* repeat from * to * around. (88 dc) ch 2 turn

dc around (88dc) ch 2 turn

dc around (88dc)   and you are DONE!!!  Well almost.

Note: I think my dress would fit my daughter better if I did one more decrease round and then an extra just regular dc round. 

Finishing:

Fasten and weave all ends. 

For bottom and neck trim.  With cc, sl stitch in.  ch 3, sk st. sc, repeat around.

For buttons. with mc. On right side, sl in bottom of opening, sc up to neck, ch1 turn, sc down again.  fasten and weave.  On other side, sl in bottom of opening, sc up to neck, ch 1, 2 sc, 2 ch, sk 2 repeat down to bottom of opening, fasten and weave.

Attach buttons. 

Now you are really done!!